Exfoliate
STE.M, photographer
Exfoliate | eksˈfōlēāt | verb • [with object] wash or rub (a part of the body) with a granular substance to remove dead cells from the surface of the skin: (example) exfoliate your legs to get rid of dead skin. Well, yes and no. Exfoliation can be generated by applying a non-granular substance as well. Here is my take on this corner-stone of my skincare.
As we age, all kinds of things can slow down a bit in our bodies. Metabolism, hair growth, and most definitely the ability for our skin cells to shed. This creates a bit of a problem if not addressed and regularly attended to: a dull complexion along with blackheads and acne. A “patina” develops that is not pretty. Pores clog more easily and the skin does not breathe as well as it should; and it most certainly does not glow.
Consistent exfoliation with excellent products is what works for me, leaving my skin free of a scaly build up of old dead cells. As the skin is fee and clear, whatever moisturizer or post-treatment I need to use (lighteners or vitamin masks) is able to reach the new layers of skin more readily and go to work. I use potions that offer four different sources of exfoliants:
Granular exfoliators should be VERY refined in their substance. Do not use large, rough particles which can tear tender skin and cause chafing. This cannot be underscored enough. Micro-granules of a superior quality, such as refined rices, oatmeal and bamboo.
Enzymatic exfoliators are usually from bromelain (bromeliads, pineapple, Ananas Cosmosus), papain (papaya, Carica Papaya), and pumpkin, (Cucurbita Pepo).
Acidic exfoliators come from several different sources: Alpha hydroxy - AHA (glycolic, lactic, citric, mandelic; derived from sugar, milk, nuts and fruits); Beta hydroxy - BHA (salicylic; derived from willow tree bark).
Retinol, derived from Vitamin A.
Morning ritual: EXFOLIATE (after wash)
After I have washed my face with a gentle gel or cream cleanser I use a daily microfoliant by Dermalogica (it contains papain and salicylic acid and coconut acid and citric acid along with gentle bamboo, oat and bran micro granules).
Put about a quarter teaspoon of powder into a moist but not sloppy wet hand. Rub hands together to form a paste.
Gently massage face (avoiding eyes), neck, décolletage and ears for around one minute.
Rinse thoroughly.
Once a week ritual: More intense EXFOLIATE (after wash)
Instead of using my usual exfoliation technique after washing, I use a multi-vitamin thermafoliant with Retinol by Dermalogica.
Squeeze about a half a teaspoon of the gel onto a moist palm and rub hands together.
Gently massage face (avoiding eyes), neck and décolletage for around one minute.
Now, this is key: take a dry wash cloth and gently rub your face with a small corner of the cloth. You will be amazed at the amount of dead skin cells that come off on the cloth.
Rinse thoroughly.
